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DT001 - Questions and AnswersUser Feedback:One user reported that he had to install a 10K pullup resistor between
+5Volts and the non grounded side of the reset button before he could program an
84 in the DT001 on board socket. Here is a small sample of messages from the Piclist archives: Subject: Re: Pic Programmer. Just a quick message to let you know that your dt001 worked great with the
pic 12C508. For your information here is the pin layout. IC Socket on Programmer 12c508 14 1 4 4 12 6 13 7 5 8 Hope this is useful. Regards, Mark. Thomas M. Alldread tmaldred@mail.island.net 12-Mar-98 I ran into a conflicting experience with the 470 pF capacitor recommendation. I use a Pentium 133 MHz and I have home built a DT001 plug in programmer SIMM board with a 40 pin ZIF socket intended for programming the whole family of PICs. I initially installed the recommended 470 pF caps on the 40 pin ZIF socket and then found the DT001 programmer would no longer read 16C84s even when mounted in the mother board 18 pin ZIF. Removal of the home built simm programmer board brought the programmer back to life. I subsequently removed the 470 pF caps and the programmer now appears to work OK with the 84s installed in either the 18 or 40 pin sockets. I have not yet confirmed its operation with any other PICs. It would appear that the caps should only be tried if the programmer does not work without them as in some cases they may cause the circuit to fail. Subject:Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie)Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 11:00:38
+0100
I got the same problem on that programmer. Try that and let me know. Marco Subject: Non-gated Timer Routine suggestions ?Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 00:45:22 +1100 G'day Pic People, snip--- Also, as a curious side note.. I just completed my first Pic Parallel port based programmer and had all sorts of trouble getting it going, until finally in desperation, I swapped Parallel ports on my PC, and everything worked OK I'm using the David Tait/Don McKenzie design programmer on LPT2 with the WinPicProg software under windows 95. Getting program/verify failures all over the place.. I had my printer on LPT1, which is the motherboard LPT port, and the programmer on LPT2 which is a ISA card based on the standard 82C11 chip.. nothing fancy.. The programmer refused to work on LPT2, even with addresses and all set correctly.. Using the diagnostics in WinPicProg (the manual Vpp/Vdd/Clock/Data activtion buttons) all worked fine, but it wouldn't program. Put the programmer on LPT1, and it instantly works fine. But LPT2 is definitely working OK, as the printer is now quite happily working on that port.. Strange.. Any clues people ? I'd prefer to have the programmer on the card-based port rather than the motherboard based port, as the programmer will be linked to various prototype PCB's, and I'd rather accidentally fry a replaceable $20 card Paralel port than a motherboard parallel port.. Brett Paulin : Trance DJ Spock, Electronic Engineer & Gyrocopter Pilot Subject: Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie)Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 08:08:01 -0800 If I may add: I use a 6' cat-5 cable and rj45 plugs on my Propic, no caps, and no problems on my 133MHz Pentium. I don't know if this helps or I am just lucky. John Subject: Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 09:49:40 -0800 Shahid, I too built the propic programmer and also used 2N3904 and 2N3906. I've only tried programming 16C84 and 16F84 .... works great. I set my VDDmin to 4.5V. Did you remember to put caps on the RB6 and RB7 lines? Subject: Re: DT-001/DT-101 ReviewDate: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 23:50:47 -0500 I has been a real pleasure putting this kit together. I got started with PICs
by etched my own TOPIC board and have been writing small programs for a year.
The DT.001 makes me feel like I'm cheating because everything (so far) Thanks for a great kit, Subject: Re: dt001 problemDate: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:06:14 -0700 Hi, I got it working by cutting down my PC-to-DT001 cable to about one foot length. I was using a cable that was over the recommended 3 feet, but didn't realize why it needed to be short (that it effects the capacitance, and was dependent on the strength of the port driver in the PC). I simply used the shortest cable at hand, which was longer. Just taking guesses as to my problem, I, with some cringing, cut off one foot of one end of the cable and soldered on a new connector. I've used too-long-cables in the past for a verity of things, with success, and I saw posts that 6 foot cables work on the DT001, so it didn't occur to me that that would be a problem. Perhaps a simple explanation on the variable port driving capability and cabling capacitance in the assembly instructions would help others avoid my mistake. The clue that led me to this was the post someone did wondering why the DT001 worked on LPT1, but not LPT2, they probably have different port drive capabilities. I wondered if my laptop couldn't drive the port strong enough for a longer cable. It turns out that that was it. Thanx for the help, great product line (you'll be hearing more of me, as I'd like to incorporate the SimmSticks into my robotics).
Cheers, Bill Harrison The Nigel Goodwin programmer has test features built in also.Here is one from Nigel now: > Prog Data Loaded :
Yes Hex Data Loaded What voltage are you feeding the board with?, and is it remaining high Subject: Re: DT001 helpDate: Sat, 26 Sep 1998
19:38:51 +1000 Second try at this message; first crashed! Noted Don has already referred you to "read the instructions"! > I am very interested in the Pic16f84 Programming Aren't we all! > I was presented recently with a special gift from my Mom, one of those Pickaxe-A kits from DonTronics. My version of it doesn't say "-A" on the end. Apparently a DT-001K plus a DT-101K (kit). A really great present anyway! > I understand that this module when completed can do various things, Well, I think you really mean to program it with your code *and run* that code, so you really *do* have to build it all up. > Can anyone advise on how to go about the basic assembly, like what Build everything on the DT-001. Some people suggest using a socket for the 7407 in case you "zap" it, but I reckon you're more likely to "zap" the printer port first. Therefore you should use a printer port card rather than the one built into the motherboard. I haven't zapped one yet, (using a monochrome card to run my ATMEL AVR-1 programmer at present actually) but just making recommendations for safety. If you use sockets, use "machined--pin" ones. I have some neat ones at present which have no insulator part! You *must* of course use one of these for the "programming" socket on the DT-001, and if you expect to use it a lot, get a ZIF socket which you plug *into* the other, as per the instructions. Actually, you probably won't want to use that socket *at all* for the present. Read on. > I was made to understand I do not have to use all these parts if I am just concentrating on the 16f84 at the moment, I think you do, according to the file I am reading for the "pickaxe". You really *don't* want to be plugging the PIC into and out of the programming socket and you don't really have any other board to use it in properly (with the crystal, 5V power, bypass caps etc.). With it soldered into the DT-101 (I really suggest you *don't* socket it, it makes it messy and bulky and sockets are really a potential source of bad connections) and the 4PDT switch fitted, you can load the DT-101 into the SIMM socket on the DT-001, program it and try out your program just by flipping switches. That's really what it's all about. > I don't want to go about using the wrong parts and damage the chips etc. Follow the instructions, I doubt there's *much* you can do wrong. Do the stepwise tests on the programmer board as you put the active components in. Then put in the bare DT-101 board and test voltages on it. Then assemble it. Check orientation of all chips many times. I don't think the transistors were included in the kit; take note that the popular American ones may be different; it's all in the instructions! Then try it out. If there's a part the necessity for which you still are wondering about, ask me and/ or Don. (I may answer faster, but then again I may not. I'm usually noisier though! ;-) I actually suggest you solder the MAX-232 into the DT-001 too. It allows you to make a program flash the TX LEDs as your first exercise.You may at a later stage want to put a MAX-232 on the DT-101 and use it on its own, but by then you'll be looking at buying more DT-101s, MAX-232s etc. By the way, a little grouch of mine regarding a spelling/ terminology
mistake I note in some of Don's notes; DB-9 connectors don't exist! He's been a
bit subtle on the circuit diagram by calling it just a "D-9"; it's
really a DE-9. Cheers, Paul B. |
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